Monday, July 20, 2009

Bath and back to Southampton

It's now Monday, and I have been spending the last day and a half - when I'm not being spoiled rotten by Ange - looking around old graveyards. Ange and I have common ancestors who were baptised, married or buried in various towns and villages on the outskirts of Southampton. It was quite a business finding some of the old churches - they were not where we expected. Often they were down a country lane - usually called Church Lane - in the middle of a paddock. We didn't have much success with graves of ancestors though - they were usually too weatherworn and covered in algae.

Before travelling back to Southampton, I spent much of Saturday exploring Bath. John and I had been there last year, but we explored not much more than the Roman Baths, the Abbey and the Pump Room. This time, I walked up to the Circus, and I was absolutely enchanted. See the photo above. I simply couldn't believe the symmetry of the Georgian architecture. I wandered around the streets, went to a museum at No 1 Royal Crescent, and then found the Jane Austen Centre, where we were allowed to take photos inside.

At the Centre we were treated to a presentation by a youngish woman who'd obviously learned her talk off by heart. At the beginning, she drew her shoulders back dramatically, took a deep breath and launched headlong into her talk! At the end, I said - to no one in particular - Phew! And the guy next to me chuckled and said you are not wrong! No chance for questions... But all in all, it was well worth the five pounds.

I found the Assembly Rooms as well, but it was being used for a show so I couldn't see inside.

I peeped inside St Michael's church where they were advertising lunch and found a quiet little restaurant operating in the area usually reserved for the baptismal font. Different anyway. After that it was time to collect my rucksack from the YMCA and head for the station. The trip from Bath to Southampton took an hour and a half of pleasant rail travel.

Ange picked me up at Southampton Central and we headed for the St Mary's football stadium, where we watched the relegated Saints (Southampton) play a Dutch team at soccer. As Paul's "enabler" she managed to get back in to see the game and bring me in for free. Despite Paul's best advice to the players, the Saints lost to the visitors.

Tomorrow we are taking Ange's mother (my dad's third cousin) out for lunch and then it's back to Horsham to Linda and Peter's place.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Plymouth, Southampton, Bath and Chippenham

Summer seems to have disappeared - maybe it was just last week - and we have had nothing except grey skies and rain!

On Tuesday, I caught the bus from Tavistock to Plymouth - about 50 minutes through beautiful rolling countryside - but Plymouth was a real disappointment. It was probably nicer down near the Hoe, but the city itself is quite dismal. Very 60s, with unimaginative town planning. I was glad to get back to Tavistock, which I really like.

On Wednesday I said farewell to Tavistock, and Brown's Hotel which I really enjoyed, although it was 69 pounds per night, and headed for Southampton. Now you'd think that would be easy by train, but in fact it was three trains from Plymouth - changing at Exeter, Westbury (in Wiltshire) - three hours altogether. In Southampton I am staying with Ange and Paul. Ange is my 4th cousin - we have a common ancestor William Moody born 1784. We met them for the first time last year and clicked straight away. We were able to have a four way chat with John yesterday morning.

On Thursday morning Ange drove me up to Salisbury to meet a most remarkable family history researcher, Dot Gurd, who is extremely helpful to anyone who asks on the Moonrakers List (for people who have ancestors in Wiltshire). She also manages a one-name society for the Gurds.

On the way, we stopped at Bramshaw in the New Forest, because I discovered since we were last in England that that is where my Tucker ancestors lived in the early 1700s before they migrated to Downton a little further north in Wiltshire. We poked around an ancient graveyard and Ange found one Tucker grave for me.

John and I had met Dot Gurd last year, and she insisted on buying us lunch so this year it was my turn. We had a great chat and took a walk around the outside of the cathedral which I will never get sick of looking at. It's as awe-inspiring as Uluru!

Mid afternoon, I took my leave of Dot and Ange who dropped me at Salisbury Station because I'd booked two nights at the Bath YMCA, so that I could have another look at Bath (I loved it last year, and didn't see enough) and spend today at the Wiltshire History Centre at Chippenham.

The YMCA accepts women (of all ages) these days, and is much the same as a Youth Hostel. I have a single room for two nights @ 27 pounds per night. Much cheaper than Browns in Tavistock, but VERY basic. One pillow, not a power point in sight, no pictures on the walls, and a shared toilet block down the hall. But fine for two nights. I am currently using wi-fi in the common area, surrounded until 30 minutes ago by about 50 young people from Spain. It doesn't worry me at all, but I'd hate to live like this for a month! I've certainly had extremes - the Hilton in Panama City for a week; comfortable rooms with various cousins in Horsham, Shere, Banbury and Southampton.

Today was a VERY wet day, but with an umbrella I managed to get to Chippenham by train without too much damage - just needed to change shoes and socks when I got back. Chippenham is the home of the Wiltshire History Centre (county archives) and I was looking for some Tucker wills to assist in filling in the missing links for my Tucker ancestry. And I was successful. I found a baptism certificate for my William Tucker (c 1728) who married in 1761, and also a couple of Tucker wills which confirmed relationships. so I can now go back to a William Tucker of Bramshaw who died in 1710 and his widow Mary who died in 1725. So they must have been born in the second half of the 1600s.

I'd arranged to meet up with a 5th cousin (sounds ridiculous doesn't it) who lives at Chippenham, and so Jean met me at the History Centre and we cabbed it back to her place for lunch, which was very nice of her. She is a former school teacher who I met through Genes Reunited (computer site) and she is an active member of the Wiltshire U3A. We have a common ancestor William Tucker born in 1764.

After lunch she called me a cab to go back to the History Centre. Did you know that in the UK, taxi drivers actually knock on the door?? Instead of blasting the horn in the street as they do in Winston Hills!!!

Tomorrow, after exploring Bath some more (I'm particularly interested in exploring Jane Austen's Bath) I catch the train back to Southampton where Ange will once more pick me up, for three more nights at her place.

This time next week I shall be back home. The time has gone fast, but I'm getting homesick. I've been able to talk to John via Skype about four times per week and we email each day, but we are really missing each other. It will be good to see my dad as well. John has been visiting him, so he's also following my trip via large print copies of the blog and some photos.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Tavistock and Milton Abbot, South Devon

Friday morning: I said my goodbyes to Ray and Trisha at Banbury station, and sat in a “standard” carriage on the train (Cross Country train) at a table, with my Netbook connected to a powerpoint at the side. How civilised can that be? I must say that I found the privatised British Rail very good, both last year and this year. This train only stops at Oxford and Reading. I have to change at Reading and again at Redhill.

Later: I take part of this back! I changed at Reading, and must have caught the slow train instead of the express, because I was over an hour late coming into Horsham. A pleasant evening with Linda and Peter, and early to bed with a long journey to Devon in the morning.

Saturday: Unfortunately the weather turned bad, and we couldn't see in places because of thick fog and rain. However, I could see enough to enjoy the countryside – lots of hedges dividing fields, and pretty villages. I was very impressed with Arundel and its magnificent castle, the seat of the Dukes of Norfolk. It is not far from Portsmouth.

We arrived at Tavistock, near Plymouth (South Devon) where I am staying for three nights in time to enjoy a pub lunch. Peter was very impressed with my hotel – Browns – and thought it would be a good place for he and Linda to stay in the off season. After lunch they continued on to Cornwall where they are staying for a week, and I explored the town in the rain. I found myself in the Pannier Market, where they boast that it is the best market in England. It was certainly impressive.

Sunday: My great great grandfather Robert Reed, a seaman, was born in Milton Abbot, just six miles from Tavistock, so I called a taxi (£9 one way) since there was no public transport except on Tuesdays! I explored the graveyard of St Constantine church and found the graves of three generations of Reeds, who were blacksmiths in the town. Unfortunately these are not my ancestors, although they are probably related. After lunch at the Edgcumbe Arms (quite deserted apart from me) I returned to Tavistock by taxi, and further explored the town. It is really quite impressive, with the ruins of an abbey, a beautiful church, wonderful architecture and a huge railway viaduct. And very hilly. Wheelchair users wouldn't like it much!

I had been told by hotel staff that another Australian was staying at the hotel, also researching his ancestors at Milton Abbot. He eventually found me, and said he was from Darwin.

I decided to spent a fourth day at Tavistock, and found that my room was available. I had intended to go to Weymouth, but public transport was difficult, and I hadn't been able to find any accommodation anyway. I will travel by rail directly to Southampton instead.

Monday: Today I spent most of the day at Tavistock Library, researching the Reed family on microfiche. I don't think I found out much that I didn't already know. Tomorrow I will catch the bus to Plymouth and see if I can find the place my great grandfather, Robert Henry Reed was born.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Chipping Campden in the Cotswalds

I arrived at Ray and Trisha's place on Tuesday evening, and we had intended to visit Chipping Campden yesterday, but a showery day and my tiredness combined to delay our trip until today. After two weeks of poor sleep, I slept nine hours Tuesday night, and another eight hours last night. So yesterday we just chilled out, and popped around to see the grandchildren and their parents last night.

Chipping Campden is only 20 miles from Banbury, but off a main road, so Ray and Trish had never been there. Like me, they were very pleasantly surprised. It attracts a great many visitors, even on a weekday, to see the grand village buildings made of Cotswald stone and the various arts and crafts created and sold there.

In 1902, Charles Robert Ashbee (CRA), who married Nevill Forbes' sister Janet, moved to Chipping Campden with many skilled craftsmen who were members of the Arts and Crafts Guild, and established quite a community of craftsmen and women. It was however a poor business decision and five years later it was closed down. However, individual craftsmen stayed and others were attracted to the village. Today there is a museum of crafts and design called Court Barn, and it is there that CRA's work is displayed along with the work of many other artisans.

Last month, an exhibition of Felicity Ashbee's multi-facetted life was held, and Olivia, Felicity's niece, obtained a catalogue for me. The former curator showed me Felicity's desk, wh'ich was awaiting collection by her relatives. Felicity was Charles and Janet Ashbee's daughter, a prolific writer, artist, teacher and community activist who passed away a year ago at the age of 95.
We wandered around the village taking photographs of the houses, shops and the almshouse, which you can see on the latest web album linked to this blog.

Tomorrow I will go back to Horsham by train - a three hour journey, which won't be a chore - the trains are a quite pleasant way to travel. I booked ahead, thus saving a considerable amount. I'm really enjoying my stay with Ray and Trish, it is very relaxing and we always have lots to talk about, remembering Philip and digging into our memories about our Reed ancestors. Ray's grandmother Alice and my grandmother Edith Annie were two of the six Reed sisters of Southampton.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

A day in Oxford

An early start yesterday, with Reg driving Olivia and me to Guildford Station, where we caught a train from Guildford to Reading and changed for Oxford, arriving there at 10 am. It was a 15 minute walk to the Taylorian Institute, the library for Slavonic studies.

I'd been corresponding with a libarian, Nick, and he produced two big boxes of Nevill's photographs of his travels, photographs of Nevill – all ages – and correspondence by Nevill to his sister Janet and condolence letters about Nevill after his death. It included letters written by Nevill in the days before he died (of his own hand) and a medical report which created great fear in his mind about infection, and letters by qualified friends of Janet's who were convinced that the doctors put unfounded fears in Nevill's mind.

I found these letters and notes quite unsettling, and I'm sure Olivia did too.

I photographed many of the photos, but I was not happy with the quality. But fortunately we had free use of a photocopier so brought away a great many copies of fascinating letters which I am reading today. There was a copy of his application for the position of Reader in Russian at Oxford, which was a potted history of his education and travels up to 1910.
Olivia left early to go back to Guildford, but I stayed because the librarian, Nick promised to take me around to see the hotel which used to be the 8 bedroom, 3 reception room house that Nevill had to himself with just one or two man-servants. It was owned by Christchurch college, and obviously leased to Nevill. The charwoman, Mrs Cornelius (the mother of his other two children) used to come in three days per week. He mentioned “his excellent charwoman, Mrs Cornelius” in a letter.

After viewing the hotel, Nick dropped me at the station where I purchased a Seniors Rail Card for ₤26, which will give me a 33% discount off rail tickets.

My next stop was Banbury, only 20 minutes by train from Oxford, where my dear (second) cousin Ray met me at the station. Raymond (Bayford) is also related to Shirley and it would be great if Shirley could meet Ray on her next trip to England.

Today Ray planned to drive me, at my request, to Chipping Camden where Janet Forbes lived and her children were born, but I didn't wake up till 10.30 (first decent sleep I'd had), and it has been raining frequently so I suggested we go tomorrow. We are just chilling out, which is very nice indeed. Daughter Tracey of course is at work. She works for a bank, and so far, her job is safe!

Monday, July 6, 2009

Meeting Olivia

I am now in Shere, Surrey, not so far from Horsham, but we have travelled here via Godden Green near Sevenoaks in Kent. Olivia picked me up yesterday morning from Linda's place, and in just over an hour we were at the grand house where our ancestors lived, and my grandmother worked as a parlourmaid.

You will see from the photos that the house and gardens are very grand. Olivia was last here in 1942, when a bomb dropped in the garden. She was just a baby. The house was taken over by the military about that time, and not long afterwards, Janet Ashbee (nee Forbes) - Olivia's grandmother - sold the estate. It is now about 25 acres, although it was larger.

Olivia had arranged for us to be shown around the house and gardens and it was a wonderful experience, and I was able to take some good photos. I was particularly looking for rooms where Nevill was photographed playing the piano in the early 20s, and where my grandmother might have served meals and freshments for guests.

Olivia's grandfather "CRA" or Charles Ashbee was an architect and designer, and he made major changes to the structure of the house in the early 40s. However, these changes are reflected in the photos I took yesterday.

On the way home to Olivia's place, we had a puncture (back wheel driver's side) on the very busy A25 and we waited two hours for the RAC. In the end a good samaritan changed it for us, protecting himself and us with his own van.

Today we are just having an easy day with two dogs - Oscar and Ashbee - as company, and a walk around this pretty village. Olivia and Reg have a work studio up the back yard so they are in and out all the time.

Just now, Olivia presented me with one of Nevill's books - a Ruskin fairy tale with his name written in childish handwriting. A lovely gift.

John and I have been able to talk on Skype about every second day and of course by email most days, but his latest email made me wish I were back with him. He had just found out that one of our dearest friends - Maruska - died last Saturday of cancer. John met her in hospital not long after his accident, so that was 39 years ago. So I too have known her since I started work in the disability sector in 1982. She had been to most of our parties and we volunteered or worked together on many an occasion over the years. Vale Maruska.
Tomorrow we are travelling up to Oxford University to the Taylor Institute where much of Nevill's academic material and various photos are kept. He was the second professor of Russian between 1922 and his death in 1929.

Linda's birthday party, 4th July

Linda's birthday party, delayed by a month so that her family in Qatar could be there, was a great success. It was lovely meeting many of her long time friends and their partners. The photos are on the web album and there is a link on top right hand side of the weblog.

Linda wasn't eating on the day, just drinking water sadly. She was being careful after her 24 hour illness the day before. However, she looked and felt much better.

That night, Linda and Peter had four visitors. I'd taken over the second bedroom where her son Paul and his wife Mel usually sleep when they stay, so they went off to a friend's party and to a hotel for the night, although I don't know if Mel was feeling up to partying. She'd not long flown over from Qatar and was dealing with two young ones and settling back into a house in Kent.

Additionally, Mel's mother Carol - the children's other grandmother - and George (4) and Alex (nearly six months) were also staying. It was happy family chaos, which suits me just fine. But I kept out of the way changing nappies, since both grandmothers were there!

Friday, July 3, 2009

Heatwave in West Sussex

Well, who 'd have thought after a week in Florida that I'd be feeling the heat in Sussex! But yes, it's hot, and the shops have sold out of electric fans. It's the humidity really. Very hot overnight.

After a nice relaxing lunch at Cheryl's place, we watched the DVD that JoAnn prepared of Shirley and I greeting each other. What a wonderful introduction Kathryn gave. And I bet if there had been flies around, Shirley would have swallowed a dozen, she was so amazed.

At 4pm it was off to the airport, where I got into trouble for having my lipstick loose in my bag, and not in the transparent container! The flight to Atlanta was packed since the previous flight had been cancelled, but it was only one hour. Just over two hours later I was on the plane to London. I didn't think Delta was up to Qantas standard, and no upgrade this time, but did I sleep! Cheryl had given me a magic pill and it worked.

I passed through customs at Heathrow with as much ease as I had in Los Angeles, and just managed to catch the National Express coach to Gatwick where Linda (maiden name Tucker) and Peter picked me up right on time. John and I met Linda and Peter for the first time last year. Like Shirley, Olivia and Ray, Linda is my second cousin. Ray (Bayford) was the only cousin I'd heard of pre Internet.

We had a lovely chat catching up (between snoozes) and planned our Friday, but these plans were thrown into disarray because Linda had been up all night with some sort of bug that she probably caught from one of her grandchildren currently visiting from Qatar with their parents. She isn't at all well.

So I went into town by myself to change some US$$ into pounds, and found myself with English and Australian coins all mixed up in my coin purse. Most embarrassing. Unlike last year, I found the old part of Horsham and went to the museum. Horsham is a historic market town and was a base for the redcoats around the 1790s when life was so tough for those tempted to shoplift or pick pockets.

Tomorrow I shall see the five grandchildren, who include a new addition - six month old Alex who was born in Qatar where his dad Paul is working for Shell in HR.

We are all hoping that Linda (who I discovered just over two years ago) is feeling better tomorrow.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

So sad to leave

Today I say my goodbyes to my extended family in the deep south, and head for the UK via Atlanta. I'm all packed, just waiting for Elizabeth to pick me up. We will go to the church offices to say goodbye to JoAnn and Debra who organised the trip for me, and pick up a copy of the video of the big event.

Then it is to Cheryl's for a final lunch with as many of the family who are not at work, see Zoe who has become a new friend, and then to the airport.

Yesterday we went to Seaside, principally to see Trisha's gallery - check out the photos in the album - and to take photos of this resort area where many better off residents of land-locked states have second homes. There were many holiday makers around, riding bikes and trikes.

Later we went to Shirley's house for a roast dinner. There were so many cousins there that we had TWO dining rooms set up. Shirley's house is right on a lake (part of the Bay actually). She has her wedding dress (from 1951) set up on a dressmaker's model in her bedroom, a nice idea - never thought of that!

As you can probably tell from my journal and the photos, I've had an absolutely wonderful time here in Panama City - what a wonderful family. We seemed to have clicked immediately - all except young Isabella who after a week is still sizing me up. But at three, that's her prerogative. At least she knows who I am.

I shall be so sad to leave. I do hope I see them again one day, maybe in the UK, maybe here, and you never know, we may even persuade one or more to take the long journey across the Pacific and show them some of the delights of Sydney.